View source for Liberty Canister Install

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== Liberty Fuel Canister Install ==


'''Ongoing discussion about this article can be found by [http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=208226 Clicking Here].'''

''Original Writeup By Fisherguy''

Okay, this is where I left  off with my AD100 install:

[http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=204909 Part One Can Be Found Here]

I ran the tank low  again and at just over ¼ tank my FP gauge was doing what I expected, dropping to  zero till the engine return line fills it enough that the AD pumps more fuel  with the excess going to the filler neck, once the canister empties it's pumping  air, the gauge drops and the whole thing repeats.

So my plan was to  drop the tank again and modify the Liberty canister by adding a draw straw to  use fore the AD return so it's filling the canister rather than pumping the  excess fuel back into the tank. I ordered a draw straw from Richard at Glacier as shown  here, note this one uses a bulkhead fitting for the seal. I felt this would give  me a better seal than the one that comes with the AD that uses a grommet as a  seal. Also the one from Glacier comes with a black tube you can bend to the  shape you need which comes in handy as you'll see later.


http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/zoom_img/14FPA_1151805857.JPG
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I ran the engine  with the AD return pumping into a 5 gallon can, after a few minutes I'd emptied  about 4½ gallons from the tank,. this made taking it out and re-installing  easier. I don't use a floor jack, just get under it (after undoing everything on  top) and undo the clamps and lower it down, after the first 4 times I'm getting  good at this!
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After dropping the  tank and removing the canister the first thing to do to be able to grind the  ribs off the inside (bottom) of the canister is to remove the fuel gauge sending  unit. Using a screw driver you can bend the tabs of the unit 1 at a time then  the whole unit will simply pull off the canister:
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http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/Fisherguy_photos/Picture012.jpg
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Here's some pictures  showing how I ground the ribs using a flat grinding wheel and a cylindrical one  so I could grind the ribs even with the surface, you can see the fuel gauge unit hanging in the last of the 3:
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http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/Fisherguy_photos/Picture005.jpg
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http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/Fisherguy_photos/Picture004.jpg
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http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/Fisherguy_photos/Picture009.jpg
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I finished off the  outside (top) surface of the canister by sanding with some emery cloth to make  it flat as possible so the o-ring of the bulkhead fitting would seal well then I  drilled the 1" hole with a hole saw:

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http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/Fisherguy_photos/Picture006.jpg
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The canister with the  bulkhead fitting installed:

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/Fisherguy_photos/Picture020.jpg

I could not extend  the draw straw straight down from where I mounted it because the fuel gauge  sending unit would make it impossible for the tube to extend into the canister  so I heated it up with a propane torch and was able to bend it so the tube would  go into the other side of the canister as shown
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http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/Fisherguy_photos/Picture029.jpg
I measured and found  the springs compress about 1½" when you put the canister in the tank, so I  trimmed the draw straw so it just passes the black support, when installed the  straw will be about 2" from the bottom of the canister:
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http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/Fisherguy_photos/Picture024.jpg
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Ready to be put back  into place.  I had to add a piece of hose to extend the AD return so it's easier  to put the fitting and hose on first rather than trying to tighten it once  installed, I used a  ½" barbed fitting from the plumbing department of the local  hardware store and hose clamps to join the hoses together. Also I never was able  to get the Dorman fitting off the AD supply line so pre-installed that hose as  well.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/Fisherguy_photos/Picture032.jpg
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With the tank  installed:
(hmmm, better check  that red tab on the wiring connector tomorrow, looks like it's not in all the  way)
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http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/Fisherguy_photos/Picture045.jpg


I dumped the 4½  gallons back into the tank and started it up. The FP gauge sat at zero till the  engine return filled the canister, then the gauge went up to 17 pounds and  didn't move, everything seemed to be working great, I was very happy and had a  celebratory tasty beverage while I cleaned up the shop.  I went for a drive, the  fuel gauge was right at  E but the FP gauge never went down, it only varied usual  as I drove. The LOW FUEL light came on and with the overhead  DTE showing 60  miles I went to fill the tank, 137 litres and $204.10 of my hard earned CDN  money, OUCH!(Fuel up here works  out to 5.64 per US gallon)
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So now I'm happy, I  have more fuel pressure than I'll ever need and no problems running the tank  low, WOOHOO!
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Thanks to Mark and Charlie for all their help, especially Mark who I bugged a lot for help and advice!

--[[User:Iker42|Iker42]] 21:44, 27 November 2008 (EST)